Down in the Valley
Ten Texas Things Worth Sharing
To the valley of the Rio Grande I know I must go ’cause my heart tells me to go.
Ann Russell, “The Rio Grande Valley,” sung by Marty Robbins
Howdy, y’all.
I’ve been to the Rio Grande Valley twice over the past few months. Both times for custom made boots. If you’ve never been to the RGV you’re missing a Texas gem. The land is lush and the people are pleasant. It’s not the most accessible destination in the great Lone Star but it’s worth the drive. This edition of Ten Texas Things Worth Sharing isn’t exclusively dedicated to the Valley but includes just enough Valley items to whet your appetite.
Documentaries: Three films about three great Texans are available for steaming. The Lady Bird Diaries about Claudia “Lady Bird” Johnson, First Lady of the United States from 1963–1969, is an intimate look into her White House diaries during some difficult days in the history of our country. Without Getting Killed or Caught is a deep dive into the life and music of Guy Clark—his friendship with Townes Van Zandt, his on-again, off-again marriage to Susanna, and the music they all made together. Steve! (Martin): A Documentary in 2 Pieces is a wonderful look into the comic genius of the Waco born “wild and crazy guy.”
Books: Recently, I picked up a book of Texas poetry—something rarely devoted to our great state: Texas, Being: A State of Poems, edited by Jenny Browne. I’ve also read Tracy Daugherty’s intriguing biography of Texas’s greatest writer: Larry McMurtry: A Life.
Music: I know Houston native Beyoncé’s Cowboy Carter is all the rage, but I have other musical suggestions. First is Golden native Kacy Musgraves’s new album Deeper Well. After her chart-busting Golden Hour I’ve come to appreciate the complexity of her musicality. Next is Abbott native Willie Nelson—a true Texans Texan. At ninety-one, Willie has released The Border—his 152nd album , featuring, of course, “Tigger,” his famed nylon-stringed Martin guitar.
Podcasts: Speaking of Willie, Texas Monthly has a fun podcast hosted by John Spong called One By Willie, in which John interviews folks about their favorite Willie song. While we’re talking about iconic Texans of a certain age, check out Dale Brisby’s interview with one of the toughest Texans out there: “Boots O’Neal 90 Years of Just Ranching.”
Ranches: Boots is a top hand at the Four Sixes Ranch in Guthrie—nearly 500 miles from the King Ranch outside of Kingsville. Both ranches are fascinating to visit, but if you find yourself in the Corpus Christi area then take a tour of the King Ranch.
Fashion: If you happen to visit the King Ranch make the short hop into Kingsville and stop in at the King Ranch Saddle Shop for some shopping. If you make the trip in the summer be sure to dress appropriately. Texas summers get as hot as as pot of boiled chicken necks, but South Texas and the Rio Grande Valley is akin to Satan bakin’ brimstone. Besides short, my go to for dealing with summer heat are breathable shirts from Poncho.
Boots: Since we’ve been talking fashion—and the Rio Grand Valley—the reason for my trips were two pair of handmade boots by master craftsman Henry Camargo in Mercedes. My boots cost more than selected a pair of Justins off the rack, but not as expensive as you might think. I got two pair of handmade boots for the price of one pair of custom boots from other bookmakers—and that included a pair of full ostrich quills. [See photos below.]
Food: The RGV is a wonderful place to sample authentic Mexican cuisine. For breakfast, I suggest Moonlight Cafe in Edinburg for their delicious migas or huevos rancheros. Be sure to get the flour tortillas. You can thank me later. If that sounds too heavy, especially on a hot, humid morning, then the place to be is El Fenix Bakery in Edinburg for donuts. They are so light and airy I’m convinced there’s no calories in them. And if there are, they’re worth ever bite. For dinner you have to try the botana, a sample plater of fajita meat sitting on a bed of nachos, topped with cheese quesadillas, at Zamoras’ in McAllen.
Movies: After all that food you’ll be ready for a good night’s sleep. But if you’d like to catch a movie instead, I suggest Texan Richard Linklater’s new flick Hit Man, based on a Skip Hollandsworth Texas Monthly story about a professional killer in Houston.
Y’allogy: Speaking of movies, here’s something from the archive: a review of The Highwaymen, starring Kevin Costner, who portrays form Texas Ranger Frank Hamer, and native Texan Woody Harrelson, who plays former Texas Ranger Maney Gault. I offer this not only because the subject matter is Texas to the core—the hunt for and killing of Bonnie and Clyde—but also because the 90th anniversary of their deaths occurred this year.
Have a wonderful summer, and rest assured each of these suggestions is 1836% pure bred Texas.
P.S.: An ironic tie-in with Linklater’s movie and Harrelson’s portrayal of a lawman bringing notorious outlaws to justice is the fact that Harrelson’s father, Charles, was a convicted hitman, sent to prison for murdering John H. Wood Jr., the first federal judge to be assassinated in the twentieth-century.
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Vaya con Dios, mi amigos. Dios y Tejas, y’all.
Derrick
Speculation ran constant that Harrellson's character and casting in No Country For Old Men may have been a nod to that dark history involving his father.
It’s a curious “coincidence” that Harrelson was cast in the role of an assassin in that movie.